How to Build a Sauna: A Step-by-Step Guide by Finnmark

Regulatory, Mechanical & Electrical Considerations

Planning Permission

In the UK, small detached saunas usually fall under permitted development. However, always check with your local planning authority. If you intend to have a wood-burning sauna heater, check whether you are in a smoke-free zone. 

Building Regulations 

Ensure compliance with building and electrical regulations to guarantee safety and efficiency. Always review and refer to the instruction manuals for all products that you choose for the sauna. This includes the fireboard, insulation, lights, electric or wood-burning sauna heater, adhesives and accessories. Choose products that are suitable for the hot and humid sauna environment and specifically designed for saunas. 

Electrical Considerations

All electrical components in the sauna should be discussed with and installed by a qualified electrician. 

Check whether the available power supply is single-phase or 3-phase. This is a key consideration early in the planning process, especially if you’re installing an electric sauna heater. The type of power supply directly affects which heater models are suitable, and thus the recommended minimum and maximum sauna volume for each power rating (kW). Choosing the right-sized heater ensures your sauna is energy-efficient, safe and enjoyable. 

The power (kW) of the sauna heater is essential to specify in the early planning stages. This can affect the maximum amount of uninsulated areas, such as windows or glass walls, incorporated into the design. The more glass and other uninsulated areas in the sauna, the more powerful the heater needs to be. For every square meter of single-glazed glass, you should add 1.5 m3 to the volume of the sauna. Double-glazed glass has a volumetric factor of approximately 0.75. This will give you the actual computational volume of the sauna, which is the volume to adhere to when choosing a sauna heater. We have covered different heating options and guidance on how to choose a sauna heater in section 3.

Most heater suppliers’ models up to 9kW can be installed on a single-phase power supply. Anything above requires a 3-phase supply. 

Sauna Computational Volume Example

In this example, we have a sauna with internal dimensions of 2 metres by 2 metres by 2 metres, giving a total volume of 8m³. The front wall of the sauna is made entirely of glass, measuring 2m wide by 2m high, which equals 4m² of glass.

To calculate the Computational Volume, which is used to determine the appropriate heater size, we must consider any glass surfaces. Glass loses heat more quickly than timber, so it increases the effective size of the sauna for heating purposes. The adjustments are: 

• Single-glazed glass adds 1.5m³ per 1m² of glass

• Double-glazed glass adds 0.75m³ per 1m² of glass

Sauna With Single-Glazed Glass

Sauna With Double-Glazed Glass

Saunas are identified as a “special location” in the wiring regulations, meaning that special measures must be taken due to the unique environment and challenging conditions. Firstly, a residual current device (RCD) must be provided as circuit protection on all circuits except for the sauna heater. Section 703 of the wiring regulations explains that “RCD protection need not be provided for the sauna heater unless such protection is recommended by the manufacturer.” This is because a small amount of latent and ambient moisture in the heater may cause nuisance tripping. Without RCD protection, additional protective measures should be taken to ensure the cables are routed and installed safely. It is recommended that the supply cable have some form of mechanical protection, like steel wire armour (SWA), along its route from the consumer unit to a local point of isolation at the sauna. Inside the sauna, the conditions influence the specification of the cables and equipment. Cables should match or exceed the specification stipulated in the installation manual. For electric sauna heaters, the power supply cable is usually specified as H07RN-F rubberised cable or SiHF silicone rubber cable. Ensure your electrician consults both the installation manual and section 703 of the wiring regulations so they are familiar with the requirements of a sauna. 

Most electric sauna heaters have a digital thermostat and a control unit, the placement of which both need to be considered. It is important to check the heater instruction manual and adhere to the rules on where to place the thermostat and the control unit.

Sauna heaters are one of the exceptions in the electrical wiring regulations. Always adhere to manufacturer's guidelines, use suitable cables and work with a certified electrician.

Additional Electrical Considerations

Safety

• Professional Installation: Always hire a certified electrician familiar with sauna electrical installations.

• Wiring: Use heat-resistant wiring and comply with local electrical codes.

• Electric Sauna Heater & Controller: Choose a suitable sauna heater for the space that you have with a compatible sauna control panel. Always adhere to the heater manufacturer’s installation guidance regarding safety distances and the heater controller’s instructions for thermostat and controller placement. More about choosing an electric sauna heater in section 3.

Lighting

• Fixture Selection: Choose vapour-proof, heat-resistant lights designed for saunas.

• Placement: Install lights to provide adequate illumination without direct exposure to intense heat. More about sauna lighting in section 2.

Drainage

Having a drain in the sauna facilitates easy cleaning, enables users to pour as much water as they wish over the sauna stones to create the soft steam, “löyly”/”leil”, and allows you to wash in the space if required. We recommend an anti-slip rated (R11 or higher at home settings, R12 or R13 in commercial saunas) tiled floor, but if you prefer a wooden floor, it is best to use a duckboard, as it allows for easy lifting and cleaning when necessary. The most suitable drainage solution will depend on the location of the waste outlet. A slot drain or a centrally positioned drain with equal falls towards the middle of the room may be optimal. Alternatively, the falls can be offset to keep the drain and trap less visible, positioning them discreetly beneath the benches.  

FAQ

Do I need planning permission for an outdoor sauna?

• Generally, no, if it's a small, detached structure. However, always confirm with your local authority.

What is the ideal size for a home sauna?

• A standard, comfortable 2-3 person sauna measures around 2m x 2m, but sizes vary based on preference and available space, and they can be smaller or larger than this. We recommend a 2.1m finished internal height for the sauna. You may need to consider lowering the ceiling height if it is over 2.1m. 

Why is ventilation crucial?

• It ensures a fresh air supply, enhances comfort, and prolongs the sauna's lifespan.

Can I use mechanical ventilation?

• Yes, but ensure the system is designed for sauna conditions.

 How much air exchange is needed? 

• Aim for around six air changes per hour for efficient airflow and temperature control. 

Can the low-level exhaust and drying vent share the same duct? 

• Yes, they can be connected to one wall outlet for a simpler, more efficient design.

2. The Sauna Interior

Wall Build-Up:

The interior wall build generally includes a fireboard, insulation, vapour barrier, sauna battens and the interior sauna cladding. This adds approximately 72-84 mm to each wall.

Fireboard

If the sauna room has timber or stud walls, it is worth considering covering them with a fireboard for safety reasons. A fireboard isn’t necessary, especially if the space has blockwork walls. Insulation is installed on top of this. The easiest and most effective way to insulate your sauna is by using specialist sauna-safe insulation boards, such as Finnfoam or Kingspan Sauna-Satu. 

Specialist Insulation Boards

Standard PIR insulation boards are not heat-safe beyond +60- 80°C, whereas sauna-safe insulation boards, such as Kingspan Sauna- Satu and Finnfoam, are heat-safe up to +100°C for long periods, and up to +250°C for short periods. Standard PIR insulation can also begin to off-gas toxic hydrogen cyanide after being exposed to hot air. Sauna insulation boards also act as a vapour seal. The boards are foil-faced and backed, allowing easy sealing using aluminium tape and preventing thermal bridging from occurring in the interior structures. They stop condensation from accumulating and the risk of mildew, mould, and rot growth on the timber structures. 

Sauna Battens

To let air circulate between the insulation and the interior cladding, battens are secured onto the insulated and vapour-sealed layer, perpendicular to the sauna cladding. This creates a gap between the insulation boards and the back face of the interior cladding. For vertical cladding, install specialist-shaped rhombus sauna battens that allow any excess water and condensation to run down the vapour barrier, over the top of the chamfered edge of the batten and down the grooves on the back of the cladding. Alternatively, cross-battening may be done to maintain airflow and drainage behind vertical cladding.  Sauna battens should be at least 20 mm thick and 45 mm wide. A suitable batten spacing is 400 mm. Thermo-treated pine battens provided additional stability to the substrate, reducing the risk of cladding moving due to battens warping or shrinking.

Sauna Cladding

After the insulation and sauna battens have been installed, you can secure the cladding onto the battens with stainless steel fixings that can be hidden within the grooves of the cladding. More about the installation of cladding in section 5. 

Corner Mouldings

Sauna corner mouldings are an important finishing touch that enhances both the appearance and durability of your sauna. As an example for SI 25x25 mm mouldings, the mouldings are installed in the interior corners where the cladding panels meet, covering any gaps and creating a clean, polished look. These are screwed on with stainless steel “lost head” flooring screws.

The installation method depends largely on your chosen moulding. Some mouldings require installation during the cladding process, so may be pinned or screwed to the battens. Other mouldings are pinned and glued after the cladding is installed. Use stainless steel finishing nails or a wood-safe adhesive rated for high temperatures to secure them in place. 

Sauna corner mouldings are often overlooked in a sauna build, but they provide a clean, finished look by neatly concealing any gaps or cut edges in the cladding. 

FAQ

Is insulation necessary for a sauna?

• Yes, it ensures efficient heating and energy conservation.

Can I use standard household insulation?

• No, only use high-temperature-rated, sauna specialist insulation or rock wool and aluminium foil for safety and performance. Regular PIR insulation can off-gas harmful chemicals in high temperatures. 

Are there specific woods recommended for saunas?

• Yes, we recommend thermally-treated timbers and wood types with natural qualities that make them suitable for higher humidity and heat environments, such as aspen, alder and Western red cedar. They resist warping and remain comfortable to the touch at high temperatures. More about wood types later in this section under Material Choices.

Layout & Ergonomics (Bench Design, Entrance, Windows & Heater Placement)

Bench Configuration 

Sauna benching can be as simple or as sophisticated as you like. From the classic two-tier layout (upper and lower bench on one wall with a step) to L-shaped or U-shaped configurations, opposing benches with raised floors, or even custom-designed body-form loungers, the options are wide-ranging and flexible to suit both space and style. 

As heat rises, in a sauna, this means the hottest air collects in the upper half of the room. Even with effective ventilation, there will always be some temperature differential between the upper and lower regions. No sauna will ever reach a perfectly even temperature (an isotherm), no matter how long it runs. That’s why traditional sauna design prioritises generous upper bench space. It’s where users will spend the majority of their time. Many sauna cultures tout the importance of bench heights that make sure the bathers’ feet are higher than the top of the heater when sitting on the upper bench. This helps to avoid disappointing cold feet and “Löyly”/steam that only warms the torso.

In a typical home sauna, we recommend the following dimensional guidelines: 

• Ceiling height: 2100 mm from finished floor level

• Upper bench: 1050 mm from floor level, and at least 600 mm wide

• Lower bench: 600 mm from floor level, approximately 400 - 500 mm wide

• Step: 300 mm from the floor level

There are multiple bench design options for saunas from a classic two-tier set-up to raised floors.

Door Location & Opening 

The door should open outward for safety reasons and be placed near the heater for optimal air circulation. Sauna doors are often timber-framed with approximately 8 mm toughened glass. The glass can have additional features and treatments - the colour and finish may be customised from clear to tinted bronze or darkened for additional privacy. The door should have a 15 or 50 mm gap at the bottom of the glass for fresh intake to the sauna. 

The door aperture is usually 10 mm larger than the frame. As an example, if your door measures 690 x 1990 mm, the opening should be 700 x 2000 mm. This will, however, depend on the door. 

Windows

Incorporating windows into the sauna design is an excellent way to bring in natural light and create a more spacious and open feel. Bear in mind that windows and doors are uninsulated areas that should be accounted for when calculating the computational volume of the sauna. A sauna-safe double-glazing solution is argon-filled and silicone-sealed. The formula we tend to use in our bespoke installations is double-glazed 6-12-6, with silicone-sealed aluminium spacer.

Heater Placement

Where you place the sauna heater depends on the design, bench set-up, the heater model and whether the heater is wood-burning or electric. The heater should be positioned for easy access, allowing bathers to comfortably pour water over the hot stones to create the pleasant “löyly” - the gentle steam that rises from the heater. At the same time, it must be placed in a location that ensures a safe distance from anyone entering, sitting in or moving in the sauna. Make sure you check and maintain the manufacturer’s recommended clearances to combustible materials, such as wooden walls and benches, for safety and performance. Consider additional heat shielding and safety rails to install around the heater. Depending on the heater model, you may be able to mount it on the wall, into the sauna benching, or have it as a freestanding centrepiece. We have covered different sauna heater options and how to choose the best heater for your sauna in section 3. 

Consider the door location making sure it opens outwards, heater placement and safety rails or heat shielding and windows when designing the optimal layout for the space. 

Material Choices

Wood/Timber

Use wood types that are suitable for the sauna environment, resist high temperatures and don’t weep resin. The most common sauna wood types are: 

• Aspen

• Alder

• Western Red Cedar

• Spruce

• Thermo Aspen

• Thermo Pine

• Thermo Alder

• Thermo Spruce

• Thermo Radiata Pine

• Dark Thermo Alder

Benches

You can choose the same wood type as the wall and ceiling cladding for a uniform look or mix different timber species to create contrast and unique design features. We recommend spruce or thermo spruce for the bench framing timber. Consider whether you require adjustable feet and additional boards for the backrests. You can build every component of your benching, or opt for cost-effective, ready-made bench elements. 

Door

Choose a specialist sauna door built from durable and heat-safe materials. Glass sauna doors are most common in indoor saunas, but you can also opt for a wooden door. Glass finishes range from clear to bronze, grey and frosted glass. A high-quality sauna door is often made of tempered glass, and the handles are either a stainless steel and wood combination or wood on both sides. You want to avoid metal handles inside the sauna, as these will get too hot to touch. The frames are made of popular sauna woods, such as alder, aspen, pine or their upgraded thermo-treated alternatives. 

Sauna Heater & Extras

The sauna heater is the heart of the sauna. If you opt for an electric sauna heater, you will need a compatible controller and suitable cables. For a wood-burning heater, a specified flue kit and potentially some heat shielding should be purchased together. Sauna stones for both electric and wood-burning sauna heaters are often purchased separately. Additional extras include heater safety railings, mounting collars and decorative stones. More about the heating options and choosing the right sauna heater is in section 3. 

Lighting

Sauna lighting is another specialist field. Lighting in a sauna should create a calm, inviting atmosphere while withstanding the extreme heat and humidity. Popular sauna lighting options include: 

• LED Sauna Spotlights and Strip Lights: Energy-efficient and specified for saunas, LED spots and lighting strips are ideal for most setups. Strip lights are often mounted onto the bench lips or backrests, while most spotlights can be installed in the ceiling and on the benches. Check the maximum installation heights and temperatures, as these will affect where in the sauna you can install the lights. 

• Wall and Corner Lights with Wooden Shades: A classic look, typically placed in corners for a warm, diffuse glow. 

• Fibre Optic Lighting: A premium choice that brings soft, ambient light.

Other Components (Tiling, Feature Walls, Heat Shielding)

In addition to the main structure and essential materials, there are several optional components to consider when designing your sauna:

• Tiling & stone may be used on floors or wall sections for durability, safety, design features or splashbacks behind the heater.

• Wooden feature walls can add visual warmth and character to your sauna design, often using contrasting timber or unique profiles to create a focal point.

• Heat shielding is essential when the heater is close to combustible materials. Proper shielding using stainless steel plates ensures safety and compliance with installation regulations. 

Choose materials that are specified for saunas and create a design that aligns with your personal preferences while adhering to safety regulations.

3. Heating Options

Types of Sauna Heaters & Installation Considerations

Wood-Burning Heaters 

A wood-burning sauna stove provides a traditional experience with a pleasant aroma. Ideal for outdoor saunas but requires a chimney and fire safety measures, as well as access to firewood.

• Flue Kit: A wood-burning heater requires a compatible chimney or a flue kit. It is always advisable to consult a HETAS engineer and have these components professionally installed. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for safe installation. 

• Heat Shielding: Depending on the placement of the heater, you may want to consider some heat shielding for the walls around the heater, around the flue and on the floor if it is made of wood. 

Wood-burning heaters guarantee a traditional experience. Image by HUUM.

Electric Heaters

An electric heater offers precise temperature control and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor saunas.

• Power Supply: As mentioned in the earlier sections, check the site’s power supply and whether it is single-phase or three-phase and has a suitable capacity for the power of the required sauna heater. 

• Cables & Isolator: Ensure you have all the correct electrical components, such as an isolator, a rubberised cable, as well as an armoured cable running to the consumer unit. These are best discussed with the electrician. 

• Controller: Unless you opt for an electric heater with manual dials, an electric heater requires a compatible sauna control unit. The options vary from wall-mounted external control panels to advanced Wi-Fi controllers that allow you to switch your sauna on from your phone. You can read our guide on how to choose the best heater controller for your sauna. 

Modern electric sauna heaters come with flexible control options, including Wi-Fi connectivity, allowing you to conveniently operate your heater from your smartphone.

Heater Sizing

• Calculation: Match heater power to the computational volume of your sauna. The computational volume of the sauna takes into account any uninsulated areas, such as windows and glass doors in the sauna. 

Read our Buyer’s Guide to Sauna Heaters to help you choose the best heater for your sauna. 

FAQ

Which is better: A wood-burning or an electric sauna heater?

• This is up to personal preference and your sauna. Wood-burning sauna heaters provide authenticity and a traditional experience. The up-front cost is generally higher than that of an electric sauna heater, as you need to purchase a suitable flue kit and potentially additional heat shielding. However, there are no ongoing electric costs. You just need to ensure you have access to firewood to heat the sauna. 

• Electric sauna heaters provide modern convenience and are easy to maintain and keep clean. You also need to consider controlling options and the available power supply. Most electric heaters above 9 kW require a 3-phase power supply, which may limit the size of an electric heater you can install in the sauna. 

Read more about our sauna heaters and our brands. 

How do I choose the right heater size?

• Calculate the sauna’s computational volume (see section 1. Planning Your Sauna - Electrical Considerations), accounting for all glass and uninsulated surfaces, and selecting a heater that fits within the recommended room volume outlined by the heater manufacturer. If you’re debating between two power ratings, we recommend opting for the higher-power heater. Choosing an underpowered heater might seem economical at first, but it can lead to disappointing performance and costly issues. You’ll struggle to reach and maintain hot sauna temperatures, reducing the overall experience. Additionally, the heater will be forced to work harder than intended, causing the heating elements to burn out faster and leading to higher maintenance and replacement costs over time. Always size your heater appropriately for the computational volume of your sauna. 

4. Cladding Installation - The Sauna Walls & Ceiling

Pick a cladding profile of your choice. You can opt for a traditional STS4 or STP cladding profile, or add a feature wall using more specialist profiles, such as the STEP profile, wooden feature wall panels or even tiled finishes as splashbacks behind the sauna heater. Most sauna cladding panels have an easy-to-install tongue and groove design. It is important to install the sauna cladding with precision to ensure the longevity of your sauna. We recommend treating the wood sauna with paraffin oil to protect it from humidity and heat. It is best practice to repeat the paraffin oil treatment on a yearly basis. 

Always refer to the recommended wastage allowance for each timber species, as the approximate materials loss during installation can vary between 5 and 15%. 

The installation of the sauna cladding is perpendicular to the batten orientation. If you wish to install the wall panels horizontally, make sure that the battens have been installed vertically. For a vertical cladding installation, the battens should be installed horizontally. 

You can use a narrow crown staple gun and stainless steel staples (type 90), or a brad nailer with stainless steel brad nails (18 gauge) for the cladding installation. Some cladding profiles work with tongue and groove cladding clips which are nailed or screwed to the battens.

Preparation

• Treating the Timber: Sauna timber can be protected further from moisture and dirt by sealing it with a light mineral oil, like paraffin oil or a water-based sauna wax. Apply the treatment to all faces and ends of the sauna cladding panels to protect the wood prior to installing the cladding

• Cutting for Fixtures: Drill holes for cables or ventilation before installation.

• Check the Batten Spacing: Make sure the battens have been installed straight and level before beginning the cladding installation. A suitable distance between the sauna battens is 400 mm. 

Ceiling Cladding

• Installation Order: Start with the ceiling, extending boards beyond the wall cladding plane.

• Attachment: Secure boards with nails through the tongue side, concealing fixings.

Wall Cladding

• Alignment: Install wall boards with a 10 mm gap at the bottom to prevent moisture absorption.

• Vent Covers: Secure sauna vent covers over ventilation openings.

Finishing Touches

• Corner Mouldings: Attach around the ceiling perimeter and corners for a polished look. For most cases, install the ceiling corner mouldings first, then the ceiling cladding. After that, fit the vertical corner moulding and finally install the wall cladding. 

The installation of the sauna cladding is perpendicular to the batten orientation.

5. Top 10 Mistakes New Sauna Builders Make

Building your own sauna is an exciting and rewarding project, but it comes with its fair share of challenges. Avoiding these common pitfalls can save you time, money, and frustration while ensuring a far better end result. 

1. Skipping Ventilation

Proper airflow is essential for a comfortable and healthy sauna. Neglecting ventilation leads to stuffy heat, uneven temperature distribution, and potentially mould growth. A good ventilation plan ensures fresh air circulation, enhances “löyly” or the steam quality, and prolongs the life of your sauna.

2. Underpowering the Heater

Underestimating your sauna’s computational volume, which includes glass and uninsulated surfaces, often results in an underpowered heater. This means longer heat-up times, disappointing steam and a low temperature, and an overworked heater. The elements may burn out quickly, leading to frequent maintenance and higher long-term costs. 

3. Using the Wrong Insulation

Not all insulation is suitable for sauna use. Materials like PIR board can off-gas toxic chemicals when exposed to high temperatures. Always use sauna-safe insulation, such as specialist sauna insulation boards like Finnfoam or Kingspan Sauna-Satu, or mineral wool, paired with a proper vapour barrier.

4. No Drainage Plan

Water spills are inevitable in any sauna, whether from steam, washing, or ladling water onto the stones. Without proper drainage, moisture can accumulate and cause long-term damage. Plan for floor drainage from the outset.

5. Poor Bench Placement

Bench height and positioning matter more than many realise. If your feet sit below the top of the heater, you’ll likely experience cold feet and poor steam circulation. A tiered bench layout, with the main bench above heater level, makes for a far more enjoyable sauna.

6. Improper Cable Choices

Standard household wiring isn’t built to handle sauna temperatures and can degrade or melt. Use only heat-rated rubber or silicone cables designed specifically for high-heat environments to ensure safety and reliability.

7. Forgetting the Fireboard

Omitting a non-combustible fireboard behind or near your heater is a serious safety oversight. Fireboard protects surrounding walls from excessive heat and significantly reduces fire risk—an essential part of safe sauna design.

8. Poor Heater Placement

The position of the heater plays a crucial role in how heat and steam circulate within the sauna. Incorrect placement can lead to uneven temperatures and weak "löyly." Ensure the heater is installed in a location that promotes effective air movement and steam distribution, always following the manufacturer’s clearance and positioning guidelines for optimal performance.

9. Overusing Glass

Glass looks elegant and modern, but it greatly increases the sauna’s heat volume, putting extra demand on your heater. If you’re incorporating glass, either double-glaze to improve insulation or size up the heater accordingly to maintain proper performance.

10. Ignoring Post-Sauna Drying

Failing to ventilate and dry the sauna after use can lead to long-term issues with damp, mould, and timber rot. Always open vents or doors after each session to allow moisture to escape and surfaces to dry completely.

Part 2: How to Build a Sauna (A Step-by-Step Guide)

Before starting your home sauna project, we strongly recommend reading through this entire step-by-step guide to gain a clear understanding of the process. This guide is intended as a general resource to help guide your build. Please note that there are multiple methods and approaches to constructing a sauna, and the best practice may vary depending on your specific space, requirements, and local regulations. 

This guide provides general advice for informational purposes only and should not be considered as a definitive or exhaustive instruction manual. We always advise consulting with a qualified professional, such as a certified electrician for electrical installations or a HETAS-registered engineer for wood-burning sauna stoves and flue systems, to ensure your build is safe, compliant, and tailored to your setup.  

• Pre-Installation checklist

• Equipment you’ll need

• Step-by-step guide

Pre-Installation Checklist:

• Check that you have all the necessary equipment ready

• Note down the critical dimensions, including stud-to-stud distance, openings for ventilation, the door and windows, and the distance between the sauna battens

• Check the cable routes and the location of all electrical components

• Check the ventilation routes and location of vents

• Note down the surfaces that require fireboard (if used)

• Note the wall build-up for each wall and the ceiling

• Check components that require additional preparation (i.e., feature walls or tiled splashbacks)

• Check the battens and cladding orientation (these must be perpendicular to each other)

• Note the glazing line and spacers required for mounting the channels

Equipment you’ll need: 

• Low-tack painters’ tape

• Tape measure

• Laser measure

• 3-axis laser level

• Spirit level

• Folding square

• Stainless steel nails

• Narrow crown stapler/Brad nailer

• Pencil

• Combi Drill

• Impact driver

• Multitool

• Saw

• Tape measure

• Hammer

• Quick clamps

Step-by-Step Guide

Part 4: Sauna Use & Well-Being

A sauna should be enjoyed, not merely tolerated. For a positive experience, it’s important to use the sauna when in good personal health and to listen to your body throughout each session. Sauna temperatures should be set with consideration for all users, ensuring a comfortable and relaxing environment. Most users should be able to relax comfortably for 15-30 minutes, with water regularly added to the stones for steam and humidity. 

You should not use the sauna when feeling unwell or ill. Contrary to popular belief, sauna use during illness, especially when combined with a cold plunge or other cryotherapy, can actually worsen your condition. While regular sauna use may help support your overall health and immunity, sessions should only be enjoyed when you’re in good personal health. 

Avoiding Substances

Saunas should not be used in conjunction with alcohol, narcotics, stimulants or pain killers, as these substances impair your body’s ability to regulate heat and can increase health risks. 

Listening to Your Body

You should never force yourself to stay in the sauna beyond your comfort level. A safe and enjoyable sauna experience depends on listening to your body and exiting the sauna when you feel the need to cool down or rest. 

Sauna Use & Children

In Finland, it’s common for children as young as six months to be introduced to the sauna at lower temperatures and under close supervision. While Finnmark Sauna does not provide an official minimum age, we strongly recommend that anyone under 18 is always supervised by a responsible adult. Parents choose to bring children into the sauna at their own risk. 

Medical Conditions and Sauna Use

We do not recommend sauna use for individuals with cardiovascular conditions. If you have any other medical conditions or are taking medication, sauna use should only proceed with the approval of your doctor. Even then, usage should begin gently and gradually, with increases in temperature, duration, and humidity introduced in small, careful stages to avoid exacerbating any health issues. 

Pre- and Post-Sauna Hygiene

Always shower before and after sauna use. Avoid using heavily perfumed or harsh soaps, shampoos, or shower gels, as your skin and pores will be more sensitive after exposure to heat. 

Hydration and Cooling Down

Ensure you are well hydrated before entering the sauna and replenish fluids afterwards. We recommend pairing sauna use with a cold plunge, cold shower, or other cryotherapy treatment for an invigorating and balanced thermal cycle. However, it’s best to end your session by warming gently. Rest on the lower bench of the sauna and allow your body to reach a natural, comfortable temperature. Avoid finishing while still very hot or very cold, as this can leave you sweating or shivering long after your session ends. 

Building a sauna requires careful planning, high-quality materials, and adherence to safety regulations. Whether you choose an indoor or outdoor sauna, following these steps will ensure a durable, efficient, and relaxing space. By considering insulation, ventilation, and the right heating system, you can create the perfect sauna retreat for years to come.